Painting new drywall is not complex, yet it always helps, when trying to do a good painting job, to have an understanding of what you are painting over, and with.
New drywall is basically a large sheet of paper interspersed with drywall mud covering the drywall screw dimples, and quite a bit of drywall mud covering the drywall seams.
Sometimes, the mud in the drywall seams feathers out a foot or more from the actual seam itself.
If you apply a finish coat to this combination of surfaces, you are almost certain to get a variance in the surface appearance of the finish coat.
The variety of materials that you are coating have different levels of paint penetration, and as that occurs and then the paint dries, these different paint penetration levels will have a different look to them.
You won’t be happy with the results if you are painting new drywall in this way.
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Covered In Dust
Invariably, when the drywall contractor is finished, the new drywall will be covered in a light (or heavy for that matter) layer of gypsum dust, that from the sanding of the screw holes and seams.
If you dry-wipe the walls, you will get some of the dust off. Better to use an only slightly damp cloth, being very careful not to wet the drywall mud.
If you use too much water or dwell over the new drywall mud, it will absorb water from the cloth and you will leave marks.
Yet you have to remove this dust if you want your primer/sealer and your paint to stick.
Primer/Sealer A Must
Always use a primer/sealer over new drywall.
It does exactly what the name says. It seals up the surface of the drywall, seals up the various mudded areas, and when it’s dry, provides a primer to which the topcoat can attach easily and securely.
When you topcoat over a primer/sealer, depending on the color selected, you might be able to finish the job with just one application of topcoat, and the resulting sheen should be even from floor to ceiling and wall to wall.
If you tend to purchase lower end priced paints and primers, you may have to apply two coats, where one coat of a better quality paint might be all you need.
My advice is to purchase mid-to-higher priced paints to ensure that the finish is all that you hoped it would be.
Use The Paint As A Primer?
Can you use paint as a primer? Usually yes. But why?
Expect to have to use multiple coats, since the paint will penetrate the various surface materials when you are painting new drywall, and when it dries, the surface appearance will vary for, likely, the first couple of coats.
Paint is usually quite a bit more expensive than a good primer/sealer.
Why not use a lower priced product that does the job (the primer/sealer) than a higher cost product (the paint) that won’t seal as well, and cost you more to use?
If you aren’t a professional painter, or have little experience painting, rather than try to accomplish a freehand cutting/framing around the ceiling, corners, around windows and doors, consider using the strip-able green painter’s tape.
Yes, it will take a while longer to mask off the areas with this tape that you don’t want to be painted, but you will make up the time when applying paint, as you don’t have to be quite as careful.
Modern paints are designed to be almost spattered free.
Yet, if you ware painting with high roller loading, and sometimes even when you are not, it is almost impossible to paint without having some drips or spatters.
Do yourself a favor and use a drop sheet on the floor and over any furniture as you are painting.
Modern paint is tough, and if you spatter it and the paint dries before you get to clean it up, you will have a very difficult time getting it off the items that you did not want to be painted in the first place.
Drop sheets should be canvas or plastic.
If you use old cotton or fabric sheets on their own, if you have a paint drip, it will likely stain right through cloth drop sheets, and paint the surface underneath.
Rolling paint, when painting new drywall is similar in process to painting any wall. See the information on paint-rolling techniques for details.
Also, all brushes are not the same. See the section on equipment on paint-brushes for details.
Along with decent drop sheets, I always have a clean, damp rag with me when I’m painting new drywall.
Regardless of how careful you are, you will get paint where you don’t want it, and given that modern latexes are easily removed (before they cure) with water, a damp rag is invaluable to clean paint drops and specks as you go.
Painting A Garage Floor
At first, blush, painting a garage floor is simple. Sweep up, put paint on the floor. Repeat, if necessary.
Yet, like any painting job, you really should first decide what it is you want from the paint job.
For example, are you OK with getting maybe a year or two and then having to repaint?
What about when you drive out of the garage, and the paint that’s under the tires on the garage floor, decides to leave along with the tires on your vehicle?
That’s what you can expect unless you approach your project properly.
The garage floor has to be clean. Not just swept, but really clean.
If it’s a relatively new floor, then perhaps you can avoid having to use a high-performance grease and oil emulsifying cleaner/remover; but perhaps not.
If you’ve got oil stains or grease stains, they have to be gone. Or you paint will not stick.
After sweeping up, wash the floor. If not using the oil remover, use hot water and detergent.
The floor has to be squeaky clean. After washing with soapy water, rinse thoroughly and repeatedly with clean water.
When you are all done the washing step, let the floor dry for at least 48 hours to be sure that all the surface dampness is gone.
Floor Wicking Water?
If you have ground water wicking up through your concrete garage floor, there are a couple of things you can be pretty sure of.
Number one, they didn’t put poly down under the floor when they poured it.
And number two, no matter what quality of paint you apply, it will have difficulty sticking.
Water wicking up through the concrete floor will lift almost any top coat.